French Alps Cycling - 2010

What equals nine days of cycling?

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In a recent comment to this blog, an informed reader described your correspondent as "certifiably crazy".  To close out this trip, adding in Howie and my two extra days including Mt. Ventoux climb here's a summary that might just prove her right:
  1. There were no crashes
  2. Only 2 flats
  3. We averaged 48 miles a day
  4. We climbed a total of 57,364 feet;  for our local friends, this about 42 times up Old La Honda
  5. For every mile we rode, we ascended 133 ft.
  6. Based on my ride time (slower than others) I was in or above a bike seat 5.25 hours per day
  7. Based on my weight and energy output, I burned 142 cans of beer which is about 130 more than I drank

 

Mt. Ventoux and a great dinner in Lyon

We awoke with hopes that yesterday's winds had died down.  It seemed that way from our room but once we stepped outside, it was clear the room was sheltered.  They were blowing as hard or harder. 
 
The day started with a jolt as I realized that my tool bag (which is critical for dis-assembling the couplings on my bike) was left in Nel's van.  A quick call reached Nel in Germany...that won't help.  On the way to the Ventoux, we stopped at a bike shop in Bedoin and found a work around.  Thank goodness.
 
As we started up from Bedoin at which point I realized that my camera chip was still in my computer from yesterday so climbing/summit photos will come from Howie in a a supplement. (not my day so far)
 
Pretty quickly we were in the forest.  Howie and I agreed that each would go at their own pace.  The forest is steep and long but after all the cycling we had done, it was much easier (and cooler) than during last year's E'tape du Tour when it  was 96 degrees hot and came after 80 miles with a lot of climbing.  Once we reached Chateau Reynaud just outside the protection of the forest, the winds grew fierce.  At one point I was putting out 210 watts and going only 6 kilometers an hour!  The good news is sometimes the wind pushed you up the mountain but it was also doing it's best to stop you or blow you off.  
 
Howie reached the summit in 2'04" and I came in at a 2'18".  Due to bike packing and without our normal tools, we decided to descend back the way we came up.  In part this was also driven by the fact the wind was coming from the north which would make the descent to Malaucene pretty gnarly.  That said, it was gnarly until we got back to the forest and even then it was straight into the wind back to our hotel.
 
After packing our bikes we drove to Lyon and had a terrific dinner at a restaurant I had been to with my wife several years ago.  Run entirely by a couple and "mom" (see photo) the food was superb, more than ample and a bargain to boot.  Undoubtedly the best meal of the trip!  For those who are ever in Lyon, it's Restaurant Les  Retrouvailles in Vieux Lyon.  
 
We just drove to the airport,, dropped the car and will fly back tomorrow.   

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Warm up for the Ventoux

Today the group trip was over. We had a nice "last supper" and celebrated Todd's birthday. 

Seven riders headed for the airport this morning while Howie and myself headed south to Mt. Ventoux.  Our drive took a little over three hours with a food stop for essentials (see photo) and a few nature breaks.  We arrived at Crillon Le Brave after sandwiches in Carpentras. 
  
As we drove, we noticed the winds were picking up.  By the time we arrived in Crillon Le Brave, it was blowing at least 20 mph and gusting higher.  A bit foreboding for our climb up the Ventoux tomorrow. 
 
As readers know, Nel, our tour leader, designed our group warm-up route up Mont du Chat.  The length and steepness of that ride redefined "warm up".  Knowing that we'd be tackling the Ventoux tomorrow, we asked ourselves not "what would Brian Botano do?" (ref:  Southpark: the Movie) but "what would Nel do?"  And not wanting to let our departed riders down, we pulled out our maps, my Garmin and decided that regardless of the headwinds, we should tackle the Col de la Madeleine not once, but twice!  (see photos for documentation).
 
We headed out of Crillon le Brave for Vaison La Romaine up the the Madeleine and then through many back roads across vineyards arriving in Vaison La Romaine after a quick stop in Entrechaux.   In Entrechaux, we had to deal with another "deviation".   The main road was closed so we "Garmined" our way with the help of a young mother in a pattiserie.  In Vaison La Romaine we searched out the amphitheatre as Howie has a friend with a house directly across.  We took the "quick way" back to Crillon...with the wind at our back.
 
Tonight we'll eat our our hotel which is a solid notch up in luxury.  Nice way to close out the trip since tomorrow after the Ventoux we're at an efficient airport hotel. 

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Col du Marais and Col de la Forclaz

Looked a little grim starting out but with every kilometer, the grim gave way to sunshine.  We lost two of our group who headed to Provance to visit the hill towns. 
 
We rode out of Annecy to the east along the lake and then headed up to Thones and Col du Marais.  The climb is one of those that takes you through small farming villages one after another.  These weren't up and down rollers but for every 100 meters you climbed, you probably lost 10 or 20 on a quick drop down.  At Thones, your correspondent snagged a great raspberry tart which surely beats the average Cliff Bar.  Our fans today were cows...lots of cows.
 
After descending, we started up the Col de la Forclaz.  Frequently on the Tour, Forclaz is only 9 km but has sections over 14% and averages just under 10%.  We rode in two groups with Speedy Jack staying back now and then.  At the top of Forclaz, there were spectacular views looking down over Lake Annecy (see photos).  We descended and picked up the road just north of Talloires and cruised back into town.  A quick trip to the chocolate store, gelato and to check on our rental car for our drive down to Ventoux tomorrow.  The rest of the folks were packing up their bikes as they are leaving in the AM.
 
About 48 miles and 5160 feet climbing.  All in all, great day with the weather again working to our favor. 

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Rain changes plans and provides a climbing break...for some

We woke up in Bourg St. Maurice to the sound of raining falling on the thick slate roof of the hotel.  Rather than ride to Annecy, we drove there arriving around noon.  Our plan was to stop near Flumet and see if the rain would let up enough to ride Col du Aravis but it didn't. 
 
After we arrived in Annecy, the rain took a pause.  We headed into the old part of town to get some food before riding.  It was just before the end of an open street market so we all bought cheese, olives, fruit and bread and had an urban picnic under the gray skies.
 
In the "what do you want to do" discussion that always accompanies rain on a bike trip, some wanted to climb while others wanted something more mellow and others wanted to just walk around town.  
 
The riders headed out of town along the west side of the lake.  About 7 km out, Jack had a flat (2nd flat of the trip).  Shortly after that we split into two groups with three heading up into the foggy mountain and three heading around the lake.  Many people were out including the young French cyclist shown in the photo who presents a new style for helmet position.
 
The lake riders had a good ride with a bit of rain at the end. One of the mountain riders described their ride as 1) the coldest they had been yet; 2) wet; and, 3) with visibility was less than 100 meters.  Sorry to have missed that!?
 
 

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Late breaking story

Markham

 

One of our riders is an avid mountain biker as well as having a penchant for adventure.  It turns out that at the upper dam just before the Croix de Fer, Markham was sighted on another adventure.  While we cannot confirm the authenticity of this account, the attached photo suggests that he left the main route to go up the gravel face of the dam.  As we receive more information, we will let you know.

 

Bourg d'Oisans Up Croix de Fer, down and the Madeleine

Today we took on two of the classic climbs of the Tour de France: the Croix de Fer and the Madeleine.  This ended up being an 80 mile day with +11,000 feet of climbing.  All of it was through gorgeous alpine vistas.  Some was steep but each was long!
 
The Croix de Fer (iron cross ...see photo; it's not much but it's there) takes you through wide vistas.  You have to remember to look back rather than just down the road otherwise you'll miss many of the best views.  Of course one of the advantages of doing this on a bike is that you have plenty of saddle time to take them in.  Stopping for a photo is a combination of capturing a memory and a quick break!
 
We were closer together today in that the fastest were taking a bit of a break and the slowest (that will be your reporter) was doing a bit better than yesterday.  Several stopped for what was reported by Nick to be pizza with burnt crust and salad for lunch though other reviews weren't as negative. 
 
One of the delights is having the vans follow us.  The descent down the Madeleine was cold but by adding long gloves, knee warmers, an additional heavy undershirt.  Kept me warm enough (read not necessarily warm).   Coming down the Croix de Fer was similar but earlier in the day so a bit warmer.
 
For the last two days, we've bumped into a group of 5 Swedes who stayed at the same hotel in Bourg d'Oisans.  We saw them again as we went up the Croix de Fer.
 
So now, it's time for dinner and beer (in the opposite order). 
 
 

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Alpe d'Huez and more

Our plan today was to race up Alpe d'Huez (literally), descend down the back on Col du Serene and then climb Deux Alpes.  For most, the race up Alpe d'Huez was won by Nick (by far our youngest: read going to college next year!).   Markham came in second followed closely by Jack.  Howie beat his personal best from six years ago as well. 
 
Alpe d'Huez is what cyclists refer to as an epic ride.  It has been a critical climb in the Tour de France many times.  Whereas during the recent Tour of California, officials constantly asked fans to not paint their favorite riders name on the road, the pavement of Alpe d'Huez is covered with legendary names and encouragement.  Each turn is numbered and named for a famous cyclist.  If one takes a moment to look back, the views down the mountain are spectacular.  Even during this early season, photographers camp out on selected corners to take your picture and then dash to give you their a card with a web address to view and hopefully purchase it later. 
 
At the summit, we learned that the Col du Serene was closed forcing a change in plans.  The choice was to descend down the route that Howie and I had climbed yesterday.  It goes through the small town of Huez and then Villard-Recluse before dropping back to the valley floor.  Most returned to the hotel and two groups headed off in different directions. 
 
Some went to lunch and then back up towards Alpe d'Huez.  Post-ride reports from everyone described it as spectacular.  The route wound it's way through small villages, across some sketchy roads and then a nice descent.  The second group headed out of Bourg d'Oisans and up Deux Alpes, a famous ski resort.  While Deux Alpes is lined with restaurants, only 1 was open!  But the food was great!
 
Clouds are rolling in now so let's hope it's just mountain mist. 

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